The sun goes up fast in the morning, it’s only about 6:30 am, surf is good, glassy condition, warm sun on your face. Waves are big enough for the take of to be further out the back,just past the last rocks, so it is a close take off to the rocks, I point out the rocks in the photos
Nice clean 4 foot wave coming through
One of the smaller sets coming through, always a bit of a dilema…take photos of the good waves. or try to catch them, today I’m opting to catch them. The good thing about the waves breaking close to the rock is that not many surfers will sit right out the back, as you need a bit more skill to make the "take -off" in front of the rock, so a lot of the other surfers are sitting further "down the line", so that’s good for me
A view from the take off area looking straight at the rocks, so for the inexperienced it can be a little bit daunting to take of on a bigger wave that’s hurtling towards those rocks, but the plan is to take off, straight away already head to the right, preferably already before your bottom turn, and then surf the wall of the wave all the way "down the line ", and I did, and it was fun
